Strong Cut
For men with broad chests, smaller waists and muscular thighs.
Chest, waist, seat and thigh are graded as separate measurements wherever the pattern carries them, so the tailoring and the trousers can clear your thighs and seat without a four-inch gap at the waistband. Shirts and knits here are cut for a broad chest and a narrower waist, but the pattern is graded from the chest. We tell you which of your measurements a given garment can use, and which it cannot, before we make it.
Pieces without a price here are estimated at fit & fabric.
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Blazer cut for a broad chest and a narrow waist
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A 44-inch chest and 34-inch waist drafted into the jacket instead of altered afterward.
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Chinos for a 32-inch waist and 26-inch thigh
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A close 32-inch waistband with room for a 26-inch thigh and full seat.
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Straight jeans that clear the thigh
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Jeans that pass a muscular thigh and still close at the actual waist.
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Oxford that does not billow
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Upper-body room with the loose waist removed from the original pattern.
No more than $250
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Flannel with room above the waist
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A flannel that clears the upper body and comes back in at the waist.
No more than $250
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Tee with a chest-to-waist taper
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Chest and bicep room without a square, oversized waist.
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Pique polo shaped below the chest
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A polo that fits the chest and upper arm without hanging loose at the waist.
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Bomber shaped for a broad upper body
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A bomber with movement through the chest and arms and a rib hem close to the waist.
Why normal sizing fails
- A shirt sized for your chest carries the same large size through the waist, while its sleeves still use the bicep allowance of an average arm.
- Standard suits pair a jacket and trouser at a six-inch drop. A 42-inch chest and 32-inch waist are a ten-inch drop, so the matched trousers start two sizes too large.
- Jeans cut for a 32-inch waist commonly leave four to six inches less thigh room than a trained leg needs. Buying for the thigh moves that excess to the waist and leg opening.
How we get your fit
Tell us your chest and waist, then add seat, thigh, bicep, sleeve and inseam where you know them. Each width is then graded on the size the pattern was actually drafted for that measurement, so your chest and your waist can land on different sizes of the same block. Every width we send the factory is one the pattern publishes; lengths follow your height and your own sleeve and inseam answers. Where a measurement runs past the ends of a pattern's size range, or the pattern carries no point for it at all, we say so before we make it.
Questions
Is this made to measure?
It is made to order to your proportions. We adjust the pattern's widths and lengths to your numbers before we make it.
What if it does not fit?
A piece with a price lists what happens if it misses. For the others: if a delivered garment misses the promised fit, we remake it or refund you.
How long does it take?
A piece with a price lists its timing. For the others, timing is confirmed after technical review and sourcing.
Can I change the design?
Yes. Customize opens the garment in our studio where you can change color, fabric, details and artwork. Your fit is kept separately, so design edits never undo it.
Strong Cut is made by ownthread, where anyone can design their own clothes and have them made for real.